Likewise on several of my motorcycles. I imagine neither of us will have been the only ones to try it, and I’ll bet you plenty of people have failed.

At least I’m wearing a helmet, right…?

While the Nazis did push programs like the VW Beetle

Another point of order about that in particular, zero regular citizens who paid into the Beetle scheme with their little KdF-Wagen Sparkarte stamps actually received one. All of the Beetles produced went to Nazi party leaders, and then Germany went to war. Hitler may have successfully sold people on the dream of an affordable personal car but he literally used it as a mechanism to embezzle money from his own citizens which he stole and used for war production.

5 Mark die Woche musst du sparen wills Du im eignen wagen fahren, my webbed foot.

A danger that he totally incited in the first place by being a bloodthirty moron.

Superglue works extremely well on coffee mugs. I have one that’s got the handle held back on with superglue and it’s been that way for probably close to a decade at this point. The stupid 1970s ceramic tile toothbrush holder in my downstairs bathroom is also held together with superglue…

I’m not entirely certain I’d be keen to try putting back together any of the liquid holding parts of a mug with it, but if you did it carefully and very thoroughly it wouldn’t surprise me if that worked as well.

Unless you’ve deliberately reversed your walls/infill printing order, the default is to print walls first. Your print head and nozzle won’t have any reason to leave the perimeter of the model even if you’re printing multiple examples of the part until the entire layer is complete on one of them. It will move to the next part in the array only after finishing the infill, which is well after your problem may have occurred on either the inner or outer perimeters on any particular layer.

I’m not sure what you’re on about with top fill. I didn’t say anything about your fill pattern or percentage.

Your nozzle won’t travel anywhere outside of your model’s outer perimeter because it has no reason to (unless your g-code is super borked, see my comment about your slicer above) but it will be dancing around within the space between the outer perimeter and center of your model many hundreds of times. Any extrusions pulled off on the outer perimeter would stay somewhere within the model.

Those sections of extrusion are being pulled away from the print as the nozzle moves, because for whatever reason they are not adhering to the rest of the print properly.

Increase print temperature, reduce print speed, or reduce travel move speeds.

Also a sanity check, look at your slicer’s output preview and ensure nothing about that model is causing it to freak out and attempt to print in midair…

That was indeed fascinating. Thanks for sharing it!

Oh, they’re about. I just haven’t seen any with modern-ish MARPAT patterns on them, for instance. If you just want an OD green one or something you can usually turn one up. If not truly surplus, one of the milspec manufacturers like Truspec will sell you one for a hundred bucks.

I have three sets of digital camo BDUs. Two sets of MARPAT, and one of some generic grey “urban” coloration. I didn’t find them difficult to source at all. Insulated jackets, though, I don’t know about.

Hey! I’ve been wearing camo and pseudo-tactical shit on the daily since long before it became fashionable. It used to be back in the good old days that military surplus gear was the cheap way for broke motherfuckers to get vaguely performant and moreover highly durable outdoor wear, plus it’s always full of pockets. Bonus points if you were also some kind of airsoft/paintball nerd.

Agreed, and the level design in Sonic CD is absolutely atrocious. It’s like they put the guy who designed the Spring Yard Zone in Sonic 1 in charge of the entire game. Sonic 2 is vastly superior, and I maintain to this day that anyone who claims Sonic CD is better is either deliberately trolling or is doing some kind of more-hipster-than-thou thing as their shtick.

Correct answer. Even in countries where by and large police aren’t armed, they still have a section of specific very heavily trained police who are armed who can be called in if shit goes down. For sitting on an overpass radaring cars, or showing up 16 hours late to write an incident report for the burglary they failed to stop, or harassing some homeowner about the length of his lawn or the volume knob position on his stereo, or any of innumerable other things the police spend most of their day doing they don’t need to be toting around guns. The majority of Americans don’t, and somehow most of us manage not to get shot on a daily basis despite theoretically rubbing elbows with most of the same criminals that the cops do.

Mario Is Missing, obviously.

This is because their bosses will not allow them to buy new lathes and milling machines.

And you see, people wonder why I always have, like, six knives on me.

I have no idea. There was some dweeb on this very instance going around spamming a Krita related thread complaining about it.

I imagine it’s related to how some neckbards on the internet are apparently extremely salty that Krita currently has a “furry” as a mascot, created by Tyson Tan.

Just for grins, here’s a manual for the oldest discontinued GE electric cooktop I could find on short notice. Note the publication date of 2017. Your card is on page 16:

https://pdf.lowes.com/useandcareguides/084691809609_use.pdf

This one is so crusty they’re still referring to Cerama Bryte by name. One wonders exactly when that licensing deal fell through…

It’s on the tip of my tongue. Starts with an M?