• Dariusmiles2123@sh.itjust.works
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    1 day ago

    To be honest that would just be the end of the consoles system as there is a reason Sony is selling the PS5 for so cheap.

    As much as I understand why Apple shouldn’t be allowed to keep everything in the Apple Store, Sony’s situation isn’t the same.

    But what would bother me more is if Sony starts to raise the prices of everything without justification.

    I got a Steam Deck and I’m slowly migrating my gaming from Playstation only to Linux/Playstation gaming. Still a Playstation 5 is a great product, especially with kids and its ease of use and great graphics for your bucks.

    • Aielman15@lemmy.world
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      21 hours ago

      To be honest that would just be the end of the consoles system as there is a reason Sony is selling the PS5 for so cheap.

      They stopped selling them for cheap as soon as they reached market dominance, so good riddance I say.

      I’m also not sure how much the PS exerience differs from Xbox, but my last console was an XOne (got it for cheap) specifically because I wanted the “no fuss” experience, and it was such a headache that it convinced me to switch to PC instead.

      • Dariusmiles2123@sh.itjust.works
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        12 hours ago

        Well I bought my ps5 a while ago, but I think that despite the price increase, it’s still cheaper than a comparable PC.

        As for the no fuss experience, my Steam Deck, which I love and have had for a few month, has already given more to tinker and solve than my ps5 in a few years.

        I just think that the Playstation experience isn’t as good and cheap as it used to be compared to PC.

        • dogs0n@sh.itjust.works
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          9 hours ago

          Cheapness ended after PS3 era I think. Even if it (ps4, ps5) is cheaper than a comparable PC, online access after a year or two would probably ruin all the savings.

          • Dariusmiles2123@sh.itjust.works
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            9 hours ago

            Agreed but you can play only offline without missing on much. I currently have the ps plus for a few more months, but I’m dropping it as the only one playing online is my son and hés playing fortnite.

            But, if you’re an online player, it’s gonna be cheaper to play on pc.

    • LandedGentry@lemmy.zip
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      21 hours ago

      No PC that isn’t a lower spec handheld can pick up and play like a console, and even that list is very short. Consoles are also, at least for a few years, the far more economical decision when it comes or acquiring the base hardware. It’s maybe changed now since we’re over halfway through this cycle but I’d challenge anyone here to match a digital PS4 for $400 USD with a PC. It’s a tall order.

      I am now a strictly PC gamer. It’s better for most things. But consoles still make sense to a lot of people. No fuss, in your games fast, simple experience, plug into your tv and go with the controller they gave you.

      • ayyy@sh.itjust.works
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        10 hours ago

        Maybe it’s because I don’t use it enough but the last Sony console I bought was the absolute opposite of “no fuss”. It was nothing but mandatory unskippable updates and I constantly got signed out and had to sign in and the 2fa app kept changing names. And also all those updates and sign-ins had mandatory EULAS you had to scroll through. Such a hassle.

        Edit: also it tried to talk to my Sony tv in some “smart” way over HDMI (so I couldn’t disable it) which would sometimes cause my TV to crash and reboot for several minutes.

        • LandedGentry@lemmy.zip
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          8 hours ago

          I mean if you read through EULA’s respect but they take seconds to get past. As for updates, I’m guessing you turned off auto updates and/or power your console down completely whenever you’re not playing it. Otherwise it should just be updating in the background and you never have to wait. That’s been typical for over a decade.

          I’m not saying those aren’t viable decisions if you want to disable all that or read everything, but the stuff you were encountering was completely avoidable. I never triggered 2FA on either my Xbox (one -> XSS) or PS4 so I’m not sure what you did to trip that up.

          Every TV lets you disable smart link so you could’ve killed that if you wanted to as well. I hate it as well! I don’t want the power button between my console and TV to be linked

          • ayyy@sh.itjust.works
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            8 hours ago

            For the updates: I put it to sleep. However my power cuts out every now and then. When the power comes back, the ps4 turns itself back on on and makes obnoxious beeping noises, just to tell me the power was cut. The dumb thing is it will stay on that screen until manually dismissed and won’t auto-update until you dismiss that screen, with no timeout. The hassle-free appliance experience!

            For your claim that the eulas being easy to skip, keep in mind that sometimes there were back-to-back updates that each required me to agree to a eula. So I would babysit the thing, walk away when it was taking forever, and when I came back it wouldn’t even be ready for gaming. Even windows isn’t that obnoxious.

            Also my tv at the time had no way to disable CEC (my new one does, and also doesn’t crash lol).

            • LandedGentry@lemmy.zip
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              8 hours ago

              my power cuts every now and then

              I mean dude that’s just a larger problem. If you were PC gaming that would be an even bigger issue. What appliance carries a backup battery?

              Get a surge protector with battery - APC is a very affordable brand. I’ve had the same one for 5 years, cost me $150. I use it to keep my PC and RAID online.

              • ayyy@sh.itjust.works
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                8 hours ago

                Yea I have one for my PC. Sony argues in court that a PlayStation is not a PC, but an appliance. I’m pointing out how untrue that is.

                • LandedGentry@lemmy.zip
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                  8 hours ago

                  What PC or appliance stays on when your power cuts off?

                  Honestly I don’t even know if that’s a question I need to ask. I can’t even follow what your argument is anymore

                  • ayyy@sh.itjust.works
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                    8 hours ago

                    No machine stays on without power, I’m not quite sure how you interpreted my statement that way. I’m saying all my other appliances recover gracefully from power loss and do whatever auto-updates they need to do in the background so when I go to use them they just work.

        • Walican132@lemmy.today
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          9 hours ago

          As an aside. I fucking hate smart TV shit. We were gifted a like Samsung 80 inch 4K tv and I was so excited to get that as a gift. I’d never had a tv bigger than 35. But all the smart shit makes it such a miserable experience.

          I’ve also decided I hate HDR. Who made the decision that the TV has its own HDR settings, the console has HDR settings, and then individual games have settings as well. I have no clue if my shit is looking the way it’s supposed to. I recently got a PS portal and on god everything looks better on it than the TV, I think because it’s preconfigured.

          I miss just plugging in the game and it looking fine.

    • Kanzar@sh.itjust.works
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      22 hours ago

      We sold our PS and now have a gaming PC hooked up to the TV.

      Been a few teething issues with convenience issues like being able to turn it on from the couch, but the experience has gotten pretty smooth now.

      • ayyy@sh.itjust.works
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        10 hours ago

        If you have a dumb TV you can use a USB to CEC adapter that talks to the tv. If you have a smart TV it is probably supported by Home Assistant so you can rig your computer to wake the TV.

        Edit: both of these solutions are arguably no-code-required but I agree they’re a bit technically involved.

        • Kanzar@sh.itjust.works
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          8 hours ago

          Yeah I ran into these solutions but unfortunately I can’t seem to find any USB-CEC adapter other than the Pulse Eight, which doesn’t seem to ship to Australia in any economical manner.

          I ended up getting a Flirc USB, couldn’t get the existing TV remote to work with that (once paired with the TV it stops sending IR signals, and the TV wouldn’t let me select the PC input as needing to activate the IR mode on the remote), ordered the Flirc Skip 1s… and now that’s working well enough we’re using the Skip1s as the primary remote for the TV as well. About 150AUD down the hole for this solution, and it’s not truly turning the PC off, but close enough!